The Demilitarized Zone (DMZ)

A trip to Korea is not complete without a visit to the Demilitarized Zone (more popularly known as the "DMZ").  For the uninformed, Korea is the only divided country remaining in the world, and it's the DMZ that separates it.

There are many outfits that offer the DMZ tour.  They say the best one is being handled by the USO and Koridoor because real US soldiers conduct the tour and they take you all the way to Panmunjeom/the Joint Security Area (JSA).  Meaning to say, you get to see North Korean  and South Korean soldiers face each other AND get a chance to actually step in North Korea!  But that tour takes up the whole day, and is expensive at US$77 (P 3,400.00).

On a budget, we chose the half-day tour given by Freedom Tours at US$42 (P 1,850.00).  It's got everything the Koridoor Tour has EXCEPT for the trip to Panmunjeom and the JSA.

A good thing about Freedom Tours is that your can reserve on-line and then pay at their booth in the arrival area of Incheon Airport.  It's simpler and easier that way.  You CANNOT do this with Koridoor.  Koridoor requires payment at least 4 days before the tour, otherwise the reservation is cancelled.

The tour bus fetched us at our hotel at 7:45.  Majority of the people in our tour were tourists from Belgium.  We had an english speaking female tour guide.  The ride to Imjingak took about 70 minutes.

Our first stop was Imjingak--a tourist information center surrounded by Korean war monuments and memorials.

I went up to the observation deck and looked at Imjigang Railroad Bridge and Dorasan Station.

This is the Freedom Bridge.  According to the guide book, this bridge was built to facilitate the release of over 12,000 prisoners during the Korean War.

This is at the end of Freedom Bridge where the prisoners were released and where they started their walk to freedom.

This is what was left of a steam locomotive after it was riddled with bullets and damaged by bombs by the North Koreans during the war.

Our second stop was the DMZ Theater and 3rd Infiltration Tunnel.

We watched a short documentary about the Korean War in the theater.

This is an aerial view of the miniature version of the JSA.  I think North Korea is on the left, while South Korea is on the right.

Mural of how the North Koreans dug tunnels to infiltrate South Korea.

Michelle is our english speaking tour guide.

"South Korean soldiers" protecting and guarding the "border."

Marker showing the 3rd Infiltration Tunnel.  The mouth of the tunnel is located just 52 kilometers away from Seoul.  It is the closest to the capital amongst the other tunnels.  According the the brochure, an army of 30,000 soldiers can pass through the tunnel and invade Seoul within 1 hour.

Everyone entering the tunnel must wear a helmet.  And you really need it to protect your head from hitting the low ceiling.

This is NOT the 3rd Inflitration Tunnel.  This is just the access tunnel to that tunnel.  You cannot take pictures in the real tunnel.

Our third stop was Dora Observatory.  From here you can see, through telescope the Gaesong Industrial Complex in North Korea, and the propaganda villages of both countries.  You'll also see the world's tallest flagpole, which belongs to the North Koreans.

Unfortunately, you can't take a picture from the telescope.  You can only take a photo behind the yellow line.  (I was told it was for security purposes).  So I took out my camera extender and took a photo from as high as I could reach.

This is what I was able to take a photo of.  Nothing much.  Just farmlands of North Korea.

The fourth and last stop of our tour was the Dorasan Train Station.  It is the last train station of South Korea before the DMZ.  It was built in anticipation of unification, but this was stalled when South Korea elected a new president last 2008.  His administration is anti-North Korea. Even more so today, after the attack on that South Korean island early this year.

South Korean males are required to render military service for 2 years.  EJ and I stand next to one of them.

Anyone care to join me take a train ride to Pyeongyang?

After the Dorasan Station stop, the tour bus went home.  We got dropped of at Yongsan Electronics Market in downtown Seoul at around 1:30pm.

For US$42, sulit na siya.  Freedom Tours provided a pretty decent tour of the DMZ.  However, if you really want the complete tour (visit the JSA) and have the extra money and time, then the USO/Koridoor tour is your best bet.  

Whatever you choose, make sure you go on a DMZ tour.

Budget:

DMZ Tour by Freedom Tours          P 1,850

Our Jam-packed Tour of Korea

In 4 days, we were able to visit 9 tourist spots in South Korea, namely:
1. Chandeokgung Palace (with Tour of the Forbidden/Secret Garden), 
2. Bukchon Hanok Village, 
3. Insa-dong, 
4. Cheonggyecheon Stream, 
5. Nami Island, 
6. Myeong-dong, 
7. the Demilitarized Zone (DMZ), 
8. Mount Namsan, and 
9. Lotte World.


We got to watch the Cookin' NANTA Show and Zipline from Gapyeong to Namiseom.  And we got to shop at the Dongdaemun Fashion District and at Yongsan Electronics Market.

	Day 1	Day 2	Day 3	Day 4
Morning	Arrive: 6:30 Bus No. 6001 to Seoul Hotel Check-In Take subway to Anguk Station Changdeokgung Palace (11:30 English Tour) -Film location of Jewel in the Palace Bukchon Hanok Village	Leave hotel 9:00 Take Train to Gapyeong Station Nami Island -Zip Line -Bike -Film location of Winter Sonata Train back to Seoul	Leave hotel 7:45 Tour Bus Pick-Up DMZ Tour (Half-day Tour of Freedom Tours)	Leave hotel 9:00  Take subway to Jamsil Station Lotte World -Film location of Stairway to Heaven
Afternoon	Insa-dong Cheonggyecheon Stream		Back in Seoul: 2:00 Yongsan Electronics Market Myeong-dong Cathedral -Film location of You're Beautiful	FREE TIME (shopping) Hotel Check-Out Leave Seoul: 5:30 Bus No. 6001 to Incheon
Evening	Dongdaemun (shopping) - Doota Tower - Migliore	Myeong-dong -Watch Cookin' NANTA Show	Namsan Tower -Film location of Kim Sam Soon	Arrive at airport: 6:45 Depart at 9:30

Had we more time, we would have:
a. visited Gyeongbokgung Palace;
b. watched the changing of the guards at Deoksugung Palace; 
c. shopped at Namdaemun Market, COEX Mall and Itaewon;
d. visited the War Memorial of Korea;
e. biked along the Han River; and
f. had coffee at Hongik University Area

Where We Stayed: Toyoko Inn Seoul Dongdaemun

During our stay in Seoul, we were checked-in at the Toyoko Inn Seoul Dongdaemun.  The hotel is located in the Dongdaemun Fashion District.  It is walking distance from department stores Doota Tower, Migliore and Hello APM.  It is a Japanese-brand hotel and I noticed most of the guests were either Chinese or Japanese.  Had no problems with the other guests.  They were not noisy or rowdy.

From the airport, you can reach the hotel by taking the airport limousine bus (No. 6001) found at the arrival area.  A one-way ticket costs W14,000.00 (P560.00).  The trip takes about 90-100 minutes.  The hotel is kinda at the tail-end of the route, so don't worry.  You'll pass by Hotel Acacia, Best Western Premiere Kukdo, and Western Coop first before reaching the Toyoko Inn stop.  The bus will stop right in front of the hotel.

The room we got cost W77,000.00 (P3,080.00).  Not a bad deal!  Most Manila hotel rooms cost P4,500.00.

The lobby is small and simple.  The front desk is manned by Koreans who can speak Japanese.  They speak English, but there can be some miscommunication.  For example, they got my credit card.  I thought it was only to note the numbers for security/collateral purposes.  I did not realize she actually charged my card already!  It's a good thing that when I checked out, I was able to have her cancel the transaction and I paid in cash.

There is no WIFI in the room, but there is an ethernet cable.  However, I was not able to use it because my laptop did not work.  Fortunately, Toyoko Inn provided 4 PCs in the lobby with free fast internet and I was able to check my e-mails regularly.

Perhaps my only gripe would be the breakfast in the lobby.  They serve simple Asian breakfast.  Some noodles, porridge, kimchi, other vegetables, bread, butter, jam and coffee.  That's it.  Nothing to really fill the stomach.  If you unsatisfied with the meal, you can cross the street to the nearest coffee shop, Cafe Ti Amo.  If you want a heavy breakfast, you'd have to walk a few blocks to Doota Tower.

The room we got was a non-smoking Double Room "A".  Typical of a Japanese-owned hotel, the room was small, but comfortable.  The double bed fit 2 people.  It was cushy.

Beside the bed was a reading lamp, the controls to the air-conditioner and a thermometer.

The room had a pretty good view of the Dongdaemun area.

I could see Mt. Namsan and N Seoul Tower from my window.

Toyoko Inn provided the basic amenities including: Blowdryer, Mirror, Telephone, Internet Access via ethernet cable, Electric Kettle, Mugs, Desk and Safe.

LCD TV with 200 channels including CNN, NGC, NatGeo Adventure, Discovery, and MTV; Tissue; Mini-Refrigerator with 2 complimentary bottles of water; Pajamas and Vaporizer.

There was no closet.  Instead, Toyoko Inn installed a rack/hanger directly to the wall.  Hey, as long as I could hang my jacket, right?!

The bathroom was again typical Japanese.  It was small, but not cramped.  I had space to move in the shower.  Toyoko Inn provided a dispenser with shampoo, conditioner and body wash.  Towels were supplied, however there were no complimentary toothbrushes and toothpaste.  You'd have to go to a 7-Eleven or a Mini-Stop for those.

The toilet was heated, which was good, and a bidet.  I tried it--it was okay, but I still prefer to use toilet paper.

Toyoko Inn Seoul Dongdaemun is accessible via subway Exit 4 of the Dongdaemun History and Culture Park Station.  Lines 2 (Green), 4 (Light Blue) and 6 (Purple) service that station.

Line 2 can take you directly to Jamsil Station (Lotte World).

Line 4 can take you directly to Myeongdong Station.

This is how Toyoko Inn looks like from the subway station exit.

We were pleased with our stay in Toyoko Inn Seoul Dongdaemun.  At P 3,000.00 per night, we couldn't complain.  That is a reasonable rate for a hotel room.  It's close to a subway station. Seoul's tourist attractions (like Myeongdong, Insadong, Cheonggyecheon, Mount Namsan, Chandeokgung, etc.) are just 5 to 15 minutes away via train or taxi.  The department stores (Doota Tower, Migliore and Hello APM) are just 2 blocks up the road. And those stores are open til 5AM! 


The bed was comfortable; the water was hot; internet was available, and the other guests kept to themselves and were not noisy.  Plus, an airport bus serviced the hotel. 


So, if you visit Seoul, do consider staying at this hotel.

For those on an even tighter budget, I heard some hostels are okay and clean.  For groups of 4 to 8, try the Hongdae Guesthouse.  It's ranked high in TripAdvisor's list of Top B&Bs.

Kris, Ria, Annette and EJ in front of Toyoko Inn Seoul Dongdaemun (March 2011)

Cheonggyecheon (Cheonggye Stream)

EJ, Annette, Ria and I also checked out the Cheonggyecheon (Cheonggye Stream).  It's the new dating place in Seoul.  Para siyang Roxas Blvd., but with better night lights.

It used to be occupied by squatters, pretty much like the Pasig River today.  And then in the 1960's the Korean government made use of it by building a skyway (elevated highway) over the whole stretch.

Then in 2005, the government tore down the skyway and restored the stream to its old self, but with a modern twist:  colorful night lights.

The stream is almost 6 kilometers long.  There are 22 different kind of bridges, made of wood, steel or cement.  We entered Cheonggyecheon, after visiting Insadong, at the Samilgyo Bridge.  And we walked all the way back to our hotel in the Dongdaemun area.

The stream is a great place for couples to go on a stroll.  Others use the cemented path to exercise and jog.

Walking back to our hotel in Dongdaemun.

They say Cheonggyecheon is even better at night with all the colorful lights.  Unfortunately, we were not able to visit the stream during the evening because we were out shopping.


After visiting Insadong, access to Cheonggyecheon is just a couple of blocks away.

Insadong

Insadong is the arts and culture mecca of Seoul.  It is filled with shops selling Korean handicrafts, Hanbok costumes and souvenirs.  There are also a lot of art galleries featuring local and foreign artists.

Insadong can be reached from your hotel by subway exiting at Anguk Station.  It is a 10 minute walk from Changdeokgung Palace.

Checking out the knick-knacks in one of the stores along Insadong.

They sell a lot of K-Pop and Korean TV/Movie Stars products, including socks with their faces on it.  I think the Koreans got this weirdness from their Japanese neighbors.

Like I mentioned earlier, Insadong is the arts and culture mecca of Seoul.  Ssamziegil is on of the place where arts and culture intertwine.

It was designed by Choi Mun-gyu and houses over 70 shops offering paintings, crafts, traditional Korean goods, papers and ceramics.

Here, grafitti is art.

I'm hungry and looking for a place to eat.

I'm tired of walking and resting on one of the plant boxes.

EJ and Annette waiting outside a shop selling traditional Korean handicrafts and souvenirs.

Starbucks changed their usual sign into Korean in keeping with the theme of the area.

If you're visiting Changdeokgung Palace and dig traditional Korean handicrafts, paintings and souvenirs, then a walk-through of Insadong should be in your itinerary.  If conventional retail shopping is what you had in mind, there's COEX Mall, Myeongdong and Itaewon for that.